Edinburgh enchants its visitors with its cobblestone streets, medieval architecture, and friendly locals. The Scottish capital isn’t the biggest city in Scotland, but it’s definitely the most charming. The small town is very walkable, taking you on a tour through little alleyways and lush green parks for the ultimate chill city getaway.
You can get to know Edinburgh on a quick weekend trip from other parts of Europe. I visited Edinburgh on a long weekend getaway from London. Although you can see Edinburgh in a couple of days, the entirety of Scotland deserves at least a full week’s vacation to explore the green countryside.
Throughout the centuries, Edinburgh’s charm has inspired many writers, most famously the author of Harry Potter. Hopefully, this guide inspires you to plan a trip to Scotland’s magical capital.
Old Town v. New Town
The heart of Edinburgh is divided into two distinct areas: Old Town and New Town.
Old Town is the medieval section of the city with Gothic buildings, cobblestone streets, and tiny alleyways known as “closes.” The most popular sights, like the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle, and Grassmarket, are located in Old Town.
To the north of Old Town is New Town. This part of the city was built in the 18th century with Georgian-style architecture. It feels more like a mini London with grid-style streets that are easier to navigate than Old Town’s winding alleys. In New Town, you’ll find lively pubs on Rose Street, views up Calton Hill, and the National Portrait Gallery of Scotland.
Princes Street Garden and the main train station, Edinburgh Waverley, divide Old Town and New Town. It’s easy to walk between the two, but Old Town is up on a hill.
Where to stay
Old Town and New Town are the best places to stay in Edinburgh. New Town is a bit more affordable and closer to local neighborhoods like Stockbridge, making it my preferred choice. Hotels and Airbnbs are around the same price, so you might as well opt for a hotel.
The Hit List
Let’s go over the things you can’t miss on your trip to Edinburgh. These must-dos are in order of priority, just in case you’re short on time.
Walk down the Royal Mile
The walk from Edinburgh Castle to the Palace of Holyrood House is known as the Royal Mile. It’s not quite a mile (it’s 1.13 miles), but if you start at Edinburgh Castle, it’s all downhill.
Snap a photo on Victoria Street
Victoria Street is the famous street that inspired Diagon Alley in the Harry Potter series. Its colorful houses on a curved street make for the perfect photo op. You’ll likely stumble upon it as you explore Old Town.
Stroll through Princes Street Gardens
Princes Street Gardens divides Old Town and New Town. The lush gardens feature beautiful flowers, ornate fountains like the Ross Fountain, and epic views of Edinburgh Castle
Marvel at Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle towers above the city on a hill. The best view of it is from Princes Street Garden.
Here’s the truth about the Edinburgh Castle: the exterior is much more impressive than its interior. It’s not really worth the £21 to go inside. Stirling Castle, on the outskirts of town, is a much better place to get your castle fix. So, sit in the grass in Princes Street Gardens to see the Edinburgh Castle in all its glory.
If you do want to visit the Edinburgh Castle, make sure to buy tickets for a morning time slot well in advance because they sell out.
Visit Dean Village
Step back in time at Dean Village, a historic milling village with charming 19th-century architecture. It transports you to a quaint German village in the countryside. Dean Village is a short walk away from New Town on a river known as the Water of Leith. If you follow the river, you’ll end up in Leith, Edinburgh’s port on the North Sea.
See the city from Calton Hill
Calton Hill has the best view of Edinburgh. It’s often described by other travel writers as a hike to reach the top, but it’s more of a walk up a staircase than a hike. At the top of the hill are monuments and a small art gallery.
Hike up Arthur’s Seat
The real hike is up Arthur’s Seat in Holyrood Park. Arthur’s Seat is an extinct volcano that you can hike to the top of in just 30 minutes. At its peak, you’ll see stunning views of the North Sea and Edinburgh in the distance. After your hike, hang out in Holyrood Park and get yourself a well-earned ice cream.
Taste Haggis and other local Scottish delicacies
Traditional British food doesn’t have the best reputation. The UK’s cuisine is often laughed at for being boring and bland, but the local cuisine in Scotland will prove you wrong.
Some of the must-try dishes are haggis, pot pie, and Scottish eggs. Scotland also has great seafood, especially salmon and shellfish.
My favorite restaurant for local cuisine in Edinburgh is The Piper’s Rest. It’s laid back with live music and delicious plates. I think about the haggis and pot pie from here often.
People watch in Grassmarket
Grassmarket is a plaza in the heart of Old Town. Historically, it was a real market, but it’s now a watering hole with bars, restaurants, and shops. Grab a seat at a restaurant outside to people-watch.
Explore the local neighborhood of Stockbridge
Just north of New Town is Stockbridge, a charming local neighborhood with cute shops and cafes. Get brunch in the area and spend your morning bopping in and out of stores. The main street to walk down is Raeburn Place.
On the way to Stockbridge, you can stop at Circus Lane, a quaint and quiet residential street, to take some photos of the 18th-century architecture.
Take a day trip to the Scottish Highlands
You can’t go to Scotland and just see Edinburgh. If you didn’t rent a car to explore the rest of Scotland, a day trip with a tour group outside of Edinburgh is a must.
We went on a Scottish Highlands tour with Discover Scotland to see Loch Ness (yes, like the lake monster), Glencoe, and other charming parts of the countryside. After much research, we found that Discover Scotland is the best bang for your buck at £64 for a full-day tour. They have tours closer to Edinburgh that don’t go as far north to visit Stirling Castle and Loch Lomond.
Even more things to do
Holyrood Palace
At the end of the Royal Mile is the official residence of the Crown in Scotland. The Palace of Holyrood, also known as Holyrood Palace, is open to the public to tour when the royal family isn’t in town.
Greyfriars Kirk
Behind Grassmarket is a cemetery in front of a church known as Greyfriars Kirk. The cemetery has a pretty garden, but it is most famous for a memorial to a dog named Bobby who visited his owner’s grave in the cemetery every day for 14 years until he passed away.
The National Galleries of Scotland
The national art museums in Edinburgh are free to enter, making it easy to pop in and out of them without the pressure to see every piece of art. There are four art museums in Edinburgh: two modern ones, a portrait gallery, and the big national one near Princes Street Gardens.
The National Portrait Gallery is located in a beautiful neo-Gothic palace in New Town. It’s worth a quick visit just to see the ornate architecture of the building. The museums are free to the public and open from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m.
Edinburgh Farmers Market
Every Saturday, the Edinburgh Farmers Market pops up beneath the Edinburgh Castle. It’s open from 9 a.m. to 2 p.m. with local purveyors selling vegetables, cheeses, and other handmade goods from the countryside. If you’re exploring the Scottish countryside after your stay in Edinburgh, it’s a great place to load up on snacks for the road.
Rose Street
Have a pint on Rose Street, the going-out area of New Town. Many bars in Edinburgh have live music, so pop into the bar with the best-sounding band.
Royal Yacht Britannia and Leith Port
Fans of The Crown, the Netflix Series, and the actual royals will appreciate a tour of the Royal Yacht Britannia. It’s located in Leith, the port of Edinburgh on the North Sea. In Leith, you can have lunch on the water with fresh seafood.
Budget + Currency
Candidly, Edinburgh isn’t a budget-friendly destination. Scotland uses the British pound, making it extra expensive for visitors from other countries. Lodging in the summer can be pricey, especially if you’re visiting during August.
Luckily, many attractions in Edinburgh are free, like its many parks and the National Gallery, so you won’t spend too much on tickets.
Getting around
You can walk everywhere worth going to in Edinburgh. But if you want to give your feet a rest, there’s a great network of buses that runs 24 hours a day. There’s also a tram that will take you to and from the airport or to Leith, the port area of Edinburgh near the North Sea.
When to go
Edinburgh is a great year-round destination with Christmas markets in the winter and breezy weather in the fall and spring.
In the summer, festivals take over Edinburgh, making it tough and expensive to book lodging. A festival known as Edinburgh Fringe descends upon the city every August. It’s the world’s largest performing arts festival with more than 50,000 scheduled performances over three weeks. While it sounds like a lot of fun, it makes being a tourist a challenge with crowded streets and fully booked hotels.
I visited Edinburgh in the final days of August, right after Fringe, and felt the aftermath of the high lodging prices.
The weather
They say you can experience all four seasons in one day in Scotland. The weather is pretty unpredictable, with sunshine one minute and rain the next. In general, Edinburgh doesn’t get too hot, which makes it nice to walk everywhere.
What to pack
Because of the unpredictable weather, be sure to pack a rain jacket for your trip to Scotland. Edinburgh’s streets were built with cobblestone, so opt for comfortable sneakers over heels or platforms.
If you plan to hike up Arthur’s Seat (which you totally should!), pack a workout outfit. I did hike it in a skirt, though, and survived.
Getting there
Via plane
Whether you fly in from London or the United States, you’ll land at the Edinburgh Airport. The flight from London to Edinburgh is only an hour and a half long. On cheap budget airlines like Ryanair and easyJet, you can get a ticket for as little as $50.
Edinburgh Airport is only 8 miles from the city center, and a tram can take you to and from the airport. The airport itself is small with only one terminal.
Via train
The train is the most scenic way to arrive in Edinburgh. It’s about a four and a half hour train ride from London. And after you account for airport security and time in the air, it’s about the same time as a flight from London. The journey can cost anywhere from $100-$200. If you’re deciding between taking the train or flying, I recommend the train. It’s better for the environment and an overall more pleasant experience.
If you take a train, sit on the right side on the way to Edinburgh to get a view of the North Sea. The train will drop you off right in the middle of the city, making it an easy walk to your hotel.
Via car
If you’re spending more than a few days in Edinburgh, you’ll want to rent a car to explore Scotland. If you arrive via car, it’s best to stay in New Town or on the outskirts of the city because the medieval roads of Old Town aren’t built for cars.
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