The Isle of Skye takes you on a journey along winding roads to reach fairy pools, ocean views, and green meadows dotted with sheep. Skye is the most magical part of the Scottish Highlands. It’s hidden away in the northwest corner of the United Kingdom, making it its own journey to get there. The island is about a five-hour drive from Edinburgh, Scotland’s capital, and it’s connected to the mainland by a single bridge. But once you cross the bridge, the magic is apparent.
For this itinerary, we’ll be based in Portree, the largest town on the island. Portree’s central location makes it a great jumping-off point for hiking, fairy-coded spots, and cozy dinners after a long day outdoors.
This journey takes about three days, but you can do it in two if you’re feeling ambitious. We’ll conquer one major hike a day and visit other natural wonders. This itinerary is best for the adventurous who like to spend time outdoors; even the easy hikes require an uphill climb.
The weather on Skye can change in an instant. A sunny Saturday can be followed by a foggy and dreary Sunday. When building your itinerary, be as flexible as possible. The sunniest day should be reserved for the biggest hikes because you’ll want something to look at after you scale to the top of a mountain.
Without further ado, let’s see the magic on the Isle of Skye.
Day 1: The West Side
We’ll waste no time on your first day on Skye. Right after you cross the bridge, you’ll head for the west side of the island. Depending on the timing, you can take a pit stop in Portree to check in to your accommodation, but we’re going to hit the ground running and head west.
Sweet treats and coffee at Lean to Skye
Your first stop in Skye will be a sweet one. Lean to Skye is a tiny little coffee shop and bakery on the side of the road a few miles from the Skye Bridge. It’s a great warm welcome to the island with fresh pastries and hot coffee.
The bakery itself is a tiny little shop with space for only a few people, but there is plenty of outdoor seating in what feels like an abandoned yet cozy bunker.
ThatPlannerFriend Tip: Lean to Skye does not have a bathroom, so if you’ve been holding it during your road trip, plan to go before or after. The gas stations right after crossing the bridge have bathrooms outside that you can pay for.
Stop by the Old Sligachan Bridge
As you make your way across the island, you’ll run into the Old Sligachan Bridge. It’s the kind of spot I didn’t initially have on my list, but when I saw a bunch of cars parked to snap photos, I immediately pulled over.
The bridge sits over a roaring river. Behind it, along A863 (a road), there’s a pasture of Highland cows, the beloved animal of all of Scotland. Drive down A863 to say hi to the famous cows.
Head west to Neist Point Lighthouse
Neist Point is all the way on the western side of the island. To reach it, you’ll need to go through a winding and scenic single-lane road with plenty of sheep that might block your path. The drive is spectacular and an essential part of the sightseeing.
After you arrive at the Neist Point parking lot, it’s about a .9 mile hike (1.8 miles round trip) to reach the lighthouse. A staircase leads you down to the main trail (these stairs on the way back up are the hardest part). Once you’re on the trail, sheep jump back and forth so you can really get up close and personal with them.
I visited Neist Point on what felt like the foggiest day of the year, but it makes you appreciate the need for a lighthouse.
Other stops
On the west side, you can also check out Dunvegan Castle & Gardens, Coral Beach, and Talisker Distillery. It all depends on what time you arrive on the island and how much daylight you have left.
Next to Talisker Distillery is the Three Chimneys, an acclaimed restaurant. To dine here, you’ll need to book a reservation far in advance. You should try to book it on the day you’re going to Neist Point and exploring the west side.
Day 2: Big Hiking Day
The best part about Skye is the hikes and the vistas along the trails. While you might be covering more mileage on other days, the two hikes on this day (a big one and a chill one) are more intense.
Hike up to Old Man Storr bright and early
Old Man Storr is the best hike in Skye for what I like to call a bang-for-your-buck view. It’s a steady uphill climb, but the hike itself isn’t very long, so it makes the spectacular view at the top well worth the uphill battle.
Because it’s the most popular hike, the parking lot for Old Man Storr fills up quickly in the mornings. If you arrive after 9 a.m. in the summer, you’re already too late. The good news is that a parking ticket is only $50, so if you illegally park on the side of the road, you can split the cost with your passengers and pay for your hike.
It’s better not to pay, of course, so make sure to arrive as early as you can.
Sandwiches from Summer in Portree
Summer is a cute grab-and-go-style cafe near the harbor in Portree. Because it’s popular, they sell out of lots of sandwiches by the afternoon.
After your hike, you can stop by Portree for lunch and see what Summer still has available. Or, you can pick something up the day before to eat on your hike. (But don’t forget to pick something up before noon).
Explore the Fairy Pools
For your next adventure, go to the Fairy Pools. The out-and-back trail to the pools is about 1.5 miles long, and you can go as deep into the wilderness as you’d like (I walked for almost 3 miles round trip). It’s a much easier walk in the park than your morning hike.
On the trail, you’ll walk along a stream with cascades and deep pools. On social media, you’ll see people floating in the pools, but locals advise against it. What you can do is stick your face in the rushing water for eternal beauty (or at least that’s what Scottish folklore says).
Hit the town in Portree
There are plenty of places to dine in Portree from seafood restaurants, pubs, and fine dining. After dinner, try to catch some live music at The Isles Inn, a cozy pub in the heart of it all.
Day 3: The North
On your final day on the island, we’ll explore the north. In the north, you’ll run into lots of ocean vistas on your drive. There are other sights besides what’s listed here, but I found them a bit underwhelming, so we’ll hit the two major highlights that could never disappoint.
Hike the Quiraing Trail
Hiking along the top of the Quiraing Trail makes you feel like you’re on top of the world. This loop hike is about 4 miles long and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to complete. You could do an out-and-back version, but the full loop makes more sense. On the loop, there are long stretches of flat or downhill sections that break up the uphill portion.
Like Old Man Storr, the parking lot can fill up quickly, and it’s a scary single-lane road to reach the lot, so plan to arrive early in the morning.
ThatPlannerFriend Tip: Do not do this hike when the weather is poor. It can get muddy in some areas, so I wouldn’t feel comfortable doing it in the rain.
Lunch at The Hungry Gull
A short drive from the Quiraing Trail is a cute cafe in a community center called The Hungry Gull. Fuel up with some brunch and lunch classics before continuing on your journey.
The Fairy Glen
The Fairy Glen might convince you that fairies are real. This whimsical hilly area looks like it was taken straight out of a storybook. The green knobs and knolls twist and turn across the landscape. You can climb up a little tower for a bird’s-eye view of the area. It’s a great spot for an afternoon frolic.
You could spend one more night in Skye, but I left straight from the Fairy Glen to Inverness to make the most of my time in the Highlands.
For a full Isle of Skye guide, check out “The Outdoorsy Guide to the Isle of Skye in Scotland.”
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