Tucked into the northeast corner of Scotland, the Isle of Skye feels like a mystical place. And it’s not because you can visit fairy glens and pools. On the Isle of Skye, the sky opens up to breathtaking landscapes of dramatic cliffs and green hills dotted with sheep that make you feel small in the best way. It’s like you’re a little forest nymph or fairy exploring a giant, awe-inspiring world.
The Isle of Skye is in a somewhat isolated area of the Scottish Highlands. It’s a five-hour drive from Edinburgh, Scotland’s captial, connected only by one bridge to the mainland. The journey is totally worth it. On your way there, you can stop by Glencoe or Loch Lomond National Park to see even more natural beauty.
The island is a playground for the outdoorsy with rewarding hiking trails and plenty of nature to explore. The best and only way to see Skye is on a road trip. Sure, you can go on a bus tour, but you’ll need more than a day to see the major sights. One of the best parts of traveling through Skye (and all of the Scottish Highlands) is pulling over hwen you spot something magical on the side of the road.
The sights of the Isle of Skye
The sights in Skye are all around you as you weave through sheep’s meadows and turn past blue ocean vistas.
Old Man Storr
Old Man Storr isn’t a person. It’s a big basalt rock rising above the hills along Skye’s coast. To reach Old Man Storr, you’ll hike a little under three miles. While it’s a bit of a challenge with a steady incline, it is the most rewarding hike on the island. The views are awesome, and if you didn’t have more to explore, you could probably stay up there all day staring at the sea beyond the hills. Experienced hikers will take about an hour to an hour and a half to complete, but plan for more time if you aren’t a big hiker.
The Quiraing
Another incredible hike is the Quiraing. The landscape features bright green cliffs, large rocks, and even some small cascades along the trail. It’s a longer hike than Storr but less challenging. The terrain varies, with long stretches of flat or downhill sections that break up the uphill portion. You can hike the Quiraing in a loop or an out-and-back trail. The loop is well worth it and takes about 1.5 to 2 hours to complete the 4-ish miles.
The Fairy Glen
The Fairy Glen might convince you that fairies are real. This whimsical hilly area looks like it was taken straight out of a storybook. The green knobs and knolls twist and turn across the landscape. You can climb up a little tower for a bird’s-eye view of the area. It’s a great spot for an afternoon frolic. Admittedly, I wish I could’ve lain in the grass here for hours on end, but beware of sheep poop on the hills.
Fairy Pools
For another fairy adventure, go to the Fairy Pools. The pools are a long stream with cascades and deeper pools of clear water. The out-and-back trail is about 1.5 miles long, and you can go as deep into the wilderness as you like (I walked for almost 3 miles round trip). You’ll start seeing waterfalls pretty early along the trail. There’s no real end point or vista, just a nice walk along the stream.
On social media, you’ll see people floating in the pools, but locals advise against it. What you can do is stick your face in the rushing water for eternal beauty (or at least that’s what Scottish folklore says).
Neist Point Lighthouse
Neist Point is on the western edge of the Isle of Skye. A lighthouse stands tall at the edge of the cliffs above the sea. The hike to the lighthouse is about 1.8 miles round trip. A staircase leads you down to the main trail (these stairs on the way back up are the hardest part). Once you’re on the trail, sheep jump back and forth so you can really get up close and personal with them (please resist petting them, though).
I visited Neist Point on what felt like the foggiest day of the year, so you could see why the lighthouse is needed.
Highland cows near the Sligachan Old Bridge
The Highland cow can feel like an elusive, mystical creature. Though they act like a mascot for the Scottish Highlands and are displayed in every gift shop, they can be hard to find. If a Highland cow is on your Scotland bucket list, you can find a pasture with a few of them along A863 behind Sligachan Old Bridge. The bridge is a nice place to stop after you say hi to the cows.
Other things to do
Dunvegan Castle & Gardens
Scotland isn’t Scotland without its castles. Dunvegan Castle & Gardens sits on a coastal bluff above the sea. It welcomes visitors from April 1 to October 15th (the only time of year you’d want to be on Skye anyway). I strongly believe that once you’ve seen a couple of castles, you’ve seen them all. I didn’t go in because of this conviction and the weather wasn’t great, but I did enjoy an affordable lunch at their cafe.
Talisker Distillery
The oldest and most notable distillery on Skye is the Talisker Distillery. It’s next to an award-winning restaurant known as The Three Chimneys. For a full culinary and Scottish whisky experience, book a table at The Three Chimneys well in advance and pair it with a distillery tour.
Sandy Beaches
Skye’s beaches aren’t for swimming, but you can visit a couple to gaze out at the sea. Coral Beach Rock lies north of Dunvegan Castle at the edge of the peninsula. To the south, go to Rubha Shlèite, known as Sandy Beach. Both beaches are very remote.
Where to stay
The capital of Skye is a small town called Portree. It’s very walkable and cute. Spend your nights making your way through its small restaurant scene and hitting the local pub.
Another popular place to stay further north is Uig. Both Uig and Portree are close to the best sights and hikes, but Portree is more central to the rest of the island.
All that said, you don’t need to stay within a proper town. (Uig isn’t even a true town). There are plenty of inns and Airbnbs in the countryside. Try to book a place off a major road so you can easily use your lodging location as a jumping-off point to explore the rest of the island.
When to go
Summer is the best time to go to Skye, but everyone knows that, so it gets crowded. Like most European destinations, try visting during the shoulder seasons of May and late September for good weather without the crowds.
Even in the summer, you need to prepare for the worst weather on the Isle of Skye. Plan to make your itinerary flexible so you can switch hikes to sunnier days. You’ll want to have a weather-resistant jacket with you at all times. The weather can shift on the island in a matter of minutes.
Driving through Skye
If it wasn’t a challenge enough to drive on the left side of the road, the roads on Skye will test your patience. The old country back roads are full of potholes and are single-lane but not one-way. You’ll need to veer off to the side to allow other cars to pass. Luckily, there are many clear passing zones.
Don’t let the driving intimidate you out of a road trip. Driving yourself is the most flexible way to see Skye. There are a few tour companies that will take you, but nothing beats the freedom to stop on the side of the road to take in a beautiful view or “awwww” at the sheep.
When booking your rental car, make sure to book with a credit card that covers your insurance. The wheels of my rental car got dinged and scratched up in Skye, so I needed to file a claim with my Chase travel rewards card. If your credit card includes insurance, do not purchase the insurance through the rental car company. It will void your credit card insurance.
One more thing about driving: bigger is not better. While you might be tempted to get a big car to withstand the challenging terrain, the roads are very narrow, so a smaller car is better suited for your journey.
Stoping in Edinburgh before your trip to the Isle of Skye? Check out this guide.
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