Many of the destinations made popular by the Euro Summer phenomenon can feel fabricated. Picturesque cities of a bygone era have been reimagined for tourism with high-priced open-air bistros and ticketed photo ops. In a sea of coastal cities that feel fake, Split feels real. It’s a breath of fresh air when you’ve been traveling to places that feel like a facade.
Split has a soul with a storied Roman past, welcoming neighborhood spots, and a sprawling park with a forest and beaches waiting to be explored. It’s by far the best destination in Croatia for people who love a combination of nature, beach, and history.
Three days is the perfect amount of time to see Split. You’ll spend two days exploring the city itself and take a day trip to the nearby Krka National Park.
Let’s get into it.
Day 1: The heart of Split
The goal of your first day is to get lost in the corridors of an ancient palace and the streets of central Split. As soon as you arrive, drop off your bags and head straight for the heart of the city.
A quick morning stop by the Green Market (Pazar)
You can learn so much about a city from its markets. The Split Green Market is on the east side of the Old Town. It’s a great place to pick up fresh fruit and cheeses for breakfast and beach snacks. You’ll go here first because it’s only open until 2 p.m. (If you’re arriving past 2 p.m., save this activity for another morning).
Get lost in Diocletian’s Palace
The best-preserved palace of the former Roman Empire sits in the middle of Split. It’s woven into the fabric of the city, so much so that it feels impossible to walk from one end of Split to the other without walking through the palace.
Diocletian’s Palace is a sprawling complex with plenty of sights to see. As you wander through it, you’ll run into Saint Domnius Bell Tower, the Vestibule (a rotunda-like structure), and the Peristyle (the main plaza).
Some areas require tickets, like the Cathedral of Saint Domnius and parts of the underground cellars. But it’s not necessary to pay any of these additional entrance fees to enjoy your time in the palace.
A section of the underground cellars is free as a walkway between the Peristyle and the Riva (the waterfront). Be sure to take that route for a peek beneath the streets.
Discover the plazas
The small alley-like streets of Split open up to picturesque plazas. Here are some you can’t miss:
Radić Brothers Square (Fruit Square)
The Radić Brothers Square is famous for picturesque buildings with green shutters on them. This style of architecture is a fixture throughout Split and the Dalmatian coast.
The People’s Square (Narodni Trg)
The People’s Square is a great place to people-watch with a cup of coffee of spritz in hand, just grab a seat a cafe in the plaza.
Republic Square (Prokurative)
This square is on the west side of the palace and the main area of Split. While it’s the least popular, it’s my favorite for its bright color. It looks like it was taken out of the set of a Wes Anderson film that has a bit more edge.
Walk along the Riva
The Riva in Split is the waterfront by the harbor. It’s pedestrian-friendly and lights up in the evening with people watching the sunset and strolling with gelato in hand after dinner. It’s a great place for a chat with friends or reading a book on a bench.
Day 2: Krka National Park day trip
Get out of town and into nature to see emerald waterfalls cascade over the greenery at Krka National Park. Croatia is home to lush national parks, and Krka is only an hour and a half drive from Split.
The best way to visit the park is with a small group tour. On a proper tour, you’ll learn about Croatia’s history and visit lesser known spots around Split. I went on a day trip with a group from Airbnb Experiences. It cost around $50 per person, plus your ticket into the park (about $20).
Krka National Park is easy to see in less than two hours (the time allotted for our tour). There’s a walking path that wraps around the park to see the best waterfalls. The best part is walking across a bridge with a great view of the falls near the end of the loop. Within the park, there are concession stands to enjoy a treat while you marvel at the falls.
Other than the park, the tour I went on took us to lunch at a local’s house in the countryside. We got a tour of the homeowner’s garden and meat cellar. We also stopped in the small coastal town of Šibenik to wander around before heading back to Split.
The day started early in the morning and wrapped up around 5 p.m.You could go to the park on your own by renting a car or taking a bus, but the $50 was well worth the money for a full-day tour.
Is Krka National Park the best national park I’ve ever been to? No, not even close. But it’s a nice change of scenery from the coastal towns of Croatia while on your trip.
Day 3: Head west to the Marjan Peninsula
Explore the western part of Split in the Varoš neighborhood and the protected nature reserve of the Marjan Peninsula.
Walk through the Varoš neighborhood
Just west of Split’s Old Town is the Varoš neighborhood. It’s a quiet area with winding streets and green-shuttered homes away from the hustle and bustle of Old Town. To reach all the destinations of the day, you’ll need to walk through it, but take your time. It’s a cute area that deserves its own moment.
Breakfast and views at Teraca Vidilica on Marjan Hill
The best views of Split and the ocean are on top of Marjan Hill on the edge of the Marjan Peninsula nature reserve. At the top of the hill is a restaurant called Teraca Vidilica. It’s a great place for breakfast with a view before heading on an adventure on the Marjan Peninsula.
To get here, you can walk up Senjska ul., a street in Varoš, or take the Marjan Stairs.
Explore Marjan Forest Park
Marjan Forest Park covers the entirety of the western peninsula of Split. It’s filled with hiking trails, monuments, and sweeping 360 views of the ocean. It’s fun to get lost and explore the park on your own terms, but there is a tourist train that will take you around the park and back to the Riva in Old Town for about 15-20 euros per person.
ThatPlannerFriend Tip: Wear your most comfortable shoes on this day because you’ll be walking uphill a lot.
Relax at Kasjuni Beach or Bene Beach
The Marjan Peninsula is home to Split’s best beaches. After all the walking around the park, take a dip and relax on the shore of Kasjuni Beach or Bene Beach. Kasjuni Beach is in a sheltered crescent cove near the southern side of the peninsula. Bene Beach is on the north side and recently reopened after being closed for over a year due to a storm. There are buses that can take you to and from the beach, but getting an Uber is more reliable.
Restaurant recommendations
Croatia isn’t famous for its restaurants or cuisine, so you won’t find any restaurants in this itinerary. But I can recommend two standout restaurants in Split.
One of the best meals I had in Croatia was at Konoba Fetivi on the border of the Varoš neighborhood and Old Town. Get the crispy fried shrimp to start and split a whole fish with your party. (You get to pick your own fish!)
Another great spot is A’E Kitchen & Wine Bar on the east side, a little outside of the tourist area. Here, you can try local wines with light bites.
Where to stay
Anywhere near the Old Town within walking distance of the Port is a good place to stay, but I loved staying in Varoš, just west of Old Town. It’s quiet and feels more local. We stayed at Stone House Luxury Rooms, which are serviced apartments run by locals that you can book on Expedia.
Arriving Split
If you’re traveling around the Dalmatian coast, you’ll likely arrive in Split on a ferry. The ferry drops you off just east of the Riva, the main waterfront area of Old Town. From here, you’ll need to walk with your bags to your hotel since cars can’t go through the small streets of Old Town.
Planning on exploring Croatia’s Dalmatian coast? Check out this guide for first-timers and the best things to do in the area.
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