Hvar is a small island in the Adriatic Sea with a big reputation as a party destination. Beach clubs and yacht parties used to dominate and define Hvar. But local regulations aimed at curbing the noise and club scene have given Hvar a new lease on life. A more chill one where you can enjoy the breeze of the pine trees, sounds of cicadas, and intoxicating turquoise blue water while sober.
Hvar is a must-visit destination on a vacation to Croatia. It’s between the two more famous towns of Dubrovnik and Split. It’s about a three-and-a-half-hour ferry ride from Dubrovnik and only about an hour from Split. Think of your stop in Hvar as the relaxing break in your itinerary where you don’t need to check off any must-sees or dos from your list except maybe a private boat day (more on that later).
In this guide, we’ll go over what you need to know for a relaxing couple of days in Hvar without any party yachts or EDM.
Let’s get into it.
Hvar Town
When you arrive in Hvar, Hvar Town will be the first place to greet you. Hvar Town is the downtown area of the island with plenty of charm to spare. It houses the main harbor, a central plaza, and a network of small streets with cute shops, cafes, and proper restaurants.
Where to stay
You’ll want to stay in or within walking distance of Hvar Town. It’s the easiest place to take the ferry to or hop on a boat to a neighboring island. People also stay in Stari Grad or Jelsa because they’re both close to ferry routes, but there isn’t nearly as much to do in either port. On the west side of Hvar Town, there are resort-like hotels with pools that are a nice place to stay if you like to take a dip after a long day at the beach or on the boat.
Things to do in Hvar
You can do nothing on Hvar and still entertain yourself by getting entranced by the crystal blue water. But if you’re reading this, you’re likely a planner friend, and you’ll go crazy if you don’t do something. Exploring Hvar Town is an obvious must-do, but here are some other things you can get up to on your visit to the island:
Spend the day on the boat
A boat tour is the best way to see Hvar. While a private boat rental with a captain can be on the pricier side, it’s absolutely worth every penny. On a boat, you can swim to the shores of hard-to-reach beaches, snorkel under Hvar’s red rocks, and visit neighboring islands. Book a boat day with Liberty Tours.
Hike up to the Španjola Fortress
For a bird’s-eye view of Hvar’s harbor and the Pakleni Islands, hike up to the Španjola Fortress. The fortress is right behind Hvar Town’s main square, and it’s a .8 mile walk up (1.6 miles round trip). Find the trail route here.
It costs €12 per person to enter the fortress, but you’re really up there for the views, so you don’t have to go inside.
Grab fresh produce from the market for your beach or boat day
While a quick trip to the market doesn’t sound like a proper or real “thing to do,” it’s essential on Hvar. Visit the Hvar Green Market near the bus station and take your pick of fresh produce. In the summer, the market has the best figs and peaches to enjoy on a sunny day by the water.
Where to go to the beach
A “beach” in Croatia is a loose term for any slab of concrete near the water. Locals turn the harbor into a beach by lying out their towels near the docks.
The best beach within town is Bonj Beach. It has more of a resort vibe. Like most beaches in Croatia, the beach is rocky, so bring water shoes.
Hvar has stunning beaches throughout the island that surpass Bonj, but they can be hard to reach. Parking is often limited, and the climb down to the beaches can be a challenge, so the best way to reach beaches like Lučišće and Dubovica is by boat.
Where to watch the sunset
A great spot to watch the sunset is Hula Hula Beach Bar. Here, you can order a drink and enjoy the view. But if you don’t care for a drink or table service, you can go directly to the nearby Hula Hula Beach and watch the sunset from the rocks with the same vista.
Where to have the best meal
The best meal of my entire Croatia trip was in Hvar at Macondo. This unassuming restaurant is tucked away on a small street of Hvar Town and serves the freshest seafood. Order the catch of the day and enjoy it at a table on a side street.
What you can skip: Stari Grad
On the northern side of Hvar is Stari Grad, a small village and ferry port. You can reach Stari Grad on a bus from Hvar Town for €5 each way. The internet has crowned Stari Grad as a hidden gem, away from the crowds of Hvar Town, but it feels a bit like a ghost town. Hvar Town is way more charming and lively. If you’re going to Split, you’ll see similar architecture there. You can skip Stari Grad and spend that time relaxing on the beach instead of spending a sunny day commuting on a bus.
How many days should you spend in Hvar?
Two nights is plenty of time to spend on Hvar. On the first day, you can explore Hvar Town and go to the beach. The next morning, you should wake up and head straight to the docks for a boat day. Your final day can just be reserved for a cafe breakfast and catching the ferry to your next destination. There isn’t much else to do for a full third day on the island unless you’re soaking up more beach time.
Getting to Hvar
A high-speed ferry is the best way to get to Hvar. The three big ferry companies are Jadrolinija, Kapetan Luka – Krilo, and TP Line. Make sure to buy a ferry ticket that takes you to Hvar Town.
Many hotels will help transport your bags from the ferry to your room, but if you’re staying in an Airbnb, be prepared to walk with your bags through town.
If you’re looking to take a car onto Hvar (which I would recommend against), you’ll need to take a ferry to Stari Grad in the north or Sućuraj to the east. While driving around the island is in theory a great way to get around, parking can be a challenge in towns and at beaches. The best way to see the island is via boat.
Spending more time in Croatia? Find out the 10 best things to do on the Dalmatian Coast and check out this first-timer’s guide to the region.
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